Most of the journeys end up with memories to be cherished for lifetime...
A few start with memories, that reside inside the deepest of the mind. This road trip was such a kind.
I was eagerly waiting for a road trip on my Bike. There are plenty of options in Odisha for such trips. I did come up with some plans initially, but for some reasons or the other they didn’t materialize. When winter came and I had 3 days of leaves in Christmas, I had to rethink and plan for a trip. Finally I came up with this plan, which included the places that are the closest to my heart. The level of excitement in me was something else as I knew the journey would be an emotional one.
There are two Districts in Central Odisha, which are too close to my heart. Ganjam and Kandhamal. My home town (Bhanjanagar) is in Ganjam District and in Kandhamal I lived for 10 years since I was a kid.
Ganjam district in Odisha is located on the border of Odisha and Andhra Pradesh. Ganjam’s total area is 8,070 km² (3,116 mi²). The district headquarter is Chhatrapur. Ganjam is divided into three sub-divisions Chhatrapur, Berhampur, and Bhanjanagar. As of 2011 it is the most populous district of Odisha (out of 30). (Source: WIKI)
Kandhamal(Odia:କନ୍ଧମାଳ) is present adjacent to Ganjam, towards central Odisha. The district headquarter of the is Phulbani. It was created on 1 January 1994 from the former Boudh-Kandhmal district as a result of district reorganization in the state of Odisha. Before that the district was known as Phulbani. (Source: WIKI)
It is the coldest district of Odisha.
The Plan:
The plan was simple. I had to start from Bhubaneswar (Capital of Odisha) and on Day-1, then via Nayagarh and Daspalla, I had to reach Phulbani (head Quarter of Kandhamal). On day 2 and 3, the plan was to comeback via Bhanjanagar and Nayagarh.
Day-1 was planned for Phulbani and Day-2 and 3 were for Ganjam. In this way I had divided each day of my 3 Days trip with the two districts (Ganjam and Kandhamal).
[The Road Map]
Day-1 (25th Dec 2015): Exploring Ganjam
Just before the day of journey, we get the news that on 25th Dec, there will be a “Bandh” in Kandhamal. So there was no way we could plan to go to Phulbani that day. So we reversed the cycle of the trip. Instead of going clockwise, we went anti-clockwise on the map. We decided to go to Ganjam on Day-1 and Kandhamal the next Day (Day-2).
It was the lovely winter morning of Christmas. I and my brother started the journey on my bike (RE Thunderbird) towards Bhanjanagar via Nayagarh which is about 85 KMs from Bhubaneswar.
It took about 1.5 HRs to reach Nayagarh. We had breakfast at Sharankul (13 KMs after nayagarh) at about 10:00 A.M. There is famous “Ladukeshwar Mahadev” temple at Sharankul, which you may visit if you want. After the breakfast, we headed directly to Bhanjanagar which is another 70 KMs from there.
While on our way, my brother came up with another plan. He suggested that if we take a detour from a square that come on the way towards Bhanjanagar, then we can visit 2 important places along the way. This would increase the distance to Bhanjanagar by about 30 KMs, but the places we would visit are completely worth it. We immediately took the detour.
Budhakhol:
We reached there at around 10:50 AM and spent about 1 HR around it. Also came across 2 cute and innocent female Blackbuck (Antilope cervicapra). One of them was very friendly and allowed me take some snaps with her.
[Blackbuck (Antilope cervicapra)]
Biranchi Narayan Temple (The Wooden Konark):
I had no idea about this place as many people don’t know its significance. When my brother described it to me, I could not wait to reach here.
The "Biranchi Narayan" Sun Temple (odia:ବିରନ୍ଚିନାରାୟଣ ଦେଉଳ) is located in the town of Buguda of Ganjam district. We reached there at about 1:00 PM. The Temple was constructed by King Srikara Bhanjadeva in 1790.
This temple is one of its kind in India for many reasons. This is the 2nd Sun-temple in Odisha after the famous Sun temple of Konark. Though this is less famous, there are many unique things about it. It is made up of intricate wood designs with paintings along the walls. Even the main icon of Sun God, is made in wood. This is why it's popularly called "Wooden Konark".
[Biranchi Narayan Sun Temple]
Unlike the Konark temple, the Biranchi Narayan Sun Temple faces west. Consequently, while at Konark sun rays of the rising sun shine on the installed Surya, at the Biranchi Narayan Temple the rays of the setting sun fall on Surya's feet.
Bhanjanagar (My Home town):
This town has a lot of significance for me. This is my hometown. My roots belong here. Though I could visit here only occasionally, I always felt a sense of belonging when am in Bhanjanagar.
Bhanjanagar (Dist: Ganjam) is located 80 KMs from Brahmapur and 85 km from Phulbani (Dist: Kandhamal). It is named after the most venerate poet of Odisha, Kabi Samrat Upendra Bhanj, who was also the ruling king of this place. It's was earlier named as RussellKonda (Russell's Hill).
After reaching there at about 2:00 PM, we had lunch. After taking a short nap at my relative's home, I took my cousin with me for local site-seeing.
There is a big reservoir located north of Bhanjanagar (catchment area of 25 square miles (65 km2). The panoramic view of the water body is breathtaking. The water of this reservoir is the prime source of drinking and irrigation for Ghumusar, Brahmampur and Chhatrapur sub-divisions.
[Bhanjanagar Water Reservoir]
Along the reservoir there is beautiful "Biju Patnaik Children's Park". This is the only park in Odisha with a toy train facility. It's a beautiful park with features like Musical fountain, Toy train, Science Park, Model Zoo, Road Train & swings for kids, boating facility, Family Train, 3D-Hall, Video Games, Aquarium.
On the hill adjacent to the park and the reservoir, lies a big statue of Lord Beleswar (Shiva). It was constructed on April 2013. It is the tallest Shiva statue in Odisha (7th tallest in the world).
[62 fts tall statue of Lord Beleswar]
As an amazing day ended, we spent the night at Bhanjanagar.
Day 2 (26th Dec 2015): Exploring Kandhamal
We thought of starting early in the morning. The next stop was Chakapada (Dist: Kandhamal) which is about 60 KMs from Bhanjanagar along the Kalinga Ghati, but as expected, it’s really hard to get up from the bed, when it’s winter. Somehow we managed to get up at 7:00 AM, had our breakfast and left Bhanjanagar at 8:00 AM.
Kalinga Ghati:
Road trip from Bhanjanagar to Phulbani is one of a kind. While crossing one district to the other, you come across this beautiful “Kalinga Ghati”.
About 10 KMs long, this is the biggest Ghati in Odisha. As a kid I was always afraid of travelling through this in bus as I always had altitude sickness. After 20 years, when I drove across the wide roads through the rocks, I found my old enemy so beautiful.
We stopped by a place where Ganjam District ends and Kandhamal starts. There is a temple being made near a perennial stream. The scenery you get at that place is beyond description.
[Kandhamal District Starts]
Chakapada:
There were two reasons to visit Chakapada. First, my aunt’s house is in that village and the last time I was there, I was 7 years old. In fact I was visiting all the places in Kandhamal district, after almost 20 years. The second reason was that I wanted to visit the famous “Lord Birupakshya” Temple.
Chakapada is located on the bank of river Burtunga at about 17 KMs from Tikkabali (Dist: Kandhamal). You have to take a right turn there. The road condition was not so good, but the off-road drive along the deep dense forests made the journey quite adventurous.
[Lord Birupakshya Temple]
Lord Birupakshya Temple is a famous Shiv temple. The Legend behind this shrine is quite interesting. Legend has it, the demon King Ravan was passing through this place with the Shiv Ling, which he was not supposed to place on ground. He met with a Brahmin named Birupakshya, whom he trusted and asked to hold the Shiv Ling, while he had to answer the call of nature. When Ravan came back, he didn’t find the Brahmin there and saw the Shiv Ling on the ground. He could not move it further, and had to worship it there. Since that day the Shiv Ling in that place is tilted towards south. Amazingly, even the trees all around the temple lean towards south. The “Maha Shiv Raatri” is the famous festival here.
It was 1:30 PM. After taking the blessings of Lord Birupakshya, we had our lunch at Chakapada and returned back to Tikkabali. The next stop was Sankarakhol.
Sankarakhol:
Sankarakhol is a village on the way from Tikkabali (about 11 KMs) to Phulbani. The place has emotional significance for me. This was one of the main reasons I opted for this road trip. The oldest and the most beautiful memories I have in mind, are from this place. We reached here at around 3:00 PM.
My family shifted to Sankarakhol, when my father served as a teacher in the Govt. High School. I started schooling in the Govt. Upper primary school here and studied till class 4. When I tried to synchronize all the old memories I have with the existing places, I felt a sense of nostalgia.
When I reached near the old house we stayed for almost 10 years, I could not dare to look at it. Nothing much has changed in the school. It was Christmas and the classes were closed. I entered the premise and visited those old classrooms and corridors. The old memories played like a movie in front of my eyes. Little did I know that my eyes were filled with tears. I drove across the roads from one end to the other in the village to feel a sense of existence. As if the place still recognizes me and saying -“I missed you so much!”
[At my School after 20 years]
After 20 years, when you stand at one end of time with those old memories playing in front of you, it’s like a pilgrimage.
We also bought a special kind of potatoes grown here in winter. These are called “Maala Alu” and are very small in size. I bought 5 KGs of it.
Phulbani:
We left Sankarakhol at about 6:00 PM and drove towards Phulbani. Phulbani town is the administrative headquarter of Kandhamal and is about 25 KMs from Sankarakhol. It is named after a lady "Phulardei" who was sacrificed by the local inhabitants as an act of religious ritual to Mother Earth (MERIA). Long back, human sacrifice was prevalent here among the tribals.
That 25 KMs ride was the best ride I ever had on my bike. The road was wide and the only sound we could hear was of my Thunderbird humming along the dark Forest with the chilling wind freezing my fingers and knees.
After reaching there at around 7:00 PM, we booked a lodge to stay overnight. The climate was perfect that night as the temperature was too low (2° C).
[Those Cold eyes, at Phulbani]
Day 3 (27th Dec 2015): Exploring Kandhamal
Balaskumpa:
We had our breakfast at Phulbani and drove towards Balaskumpa around 8:30 AM. At about 18 KMs from Phulbani, this is a small village deep inside the forests. The roads are narrow but good.
Like Sankarakhol was emotionally the most important place for me to visit on this trip, there is another place that is too close to my father. Out of total 40 years of his teaching career, he has served in various schools in Kandhamal district for about 28 years. He started here when he was 22, in the Govt. high school of Balaskumpa. Whenever I ask him about the time when he joined here, he goes 40 years down the memory lane and says this was the best time he had in his life. He served here from 07th OCT 1975 to 14th SEPT 1979.
After reaching there at around 9:00, we went to the famous temple of “Barala Devi”. According to the native tribes, Barala Devi is the creator of the world. The deity has been worshipped here since centuries. In old times, tribals used to perform human sacrifice here (Meria Rituals).
[Barala Devi Temple]
There is a beautiful dam called “Pilasalunki”, built over the River Salunki at about 3 KMs from Balaskumpa. The place is scenic and is a popular picnic spot. We spent some time there enjoying the calm and cold wind as it was the last destination of the trip.
[Pilasalunki Dam near Balaskumpa]
We left Balaskumpa at around 11:00 AM, and drove towards Bhubaneswar via Daspalla and Nayagarh. We took the lunch break at nayagarh and reached Bhubaneswar (home) around 5:00 PM that evening.
A total of 632 KMs I travelled. The whole trip was a medium to revive that emotional bond I once had with these places. It made that bond stronger. The only thing I knew from the beginning of the trip was, that this would be the best road trip of my life. It indeed was.
Many things have changed in these years, except the love of these people and the sense of belonging. These places define me; I owe my existence to them.
